A History of the Vermont Apple Industry


(from the original book, The Seasons Of Apples, produced by the Vermont Department of Agiculture)

Introduction

The Days of Honeygold and Sops of Wine

In the Early 'Cider' Time

The Varieties of Self Sufficiency

Enter the McIntosh

Start of the Modern Era

Using Knowledge to Reduce Environmental Risk

 

VERMONT APPLE INDUSTRY TIMELINE

1776 Alexander McIntosh emigrated from Scotland to the Mohawk Valleyof New York State.

1776 John McIntosh was born.

1791 The Town of Braintree passed a law for a bounty of sixpence to be paid on each apple tree transplanted into an orchard of at least 25, but no more than 100 trees.

1810 "There were immense quantities of apples produced (in Vermont). These were mostly manufactured into cider." (Thompson's History of Vermont)Cider was drunk as freely as water. The price abroad did not warrant the expense of transportation. Large quantities of cider brandy were made. One hundred and twenty-five Vermont distilleries produced 173,285 gal. of cider brandy. (Report of the Vermont Board of Agriculture 1920-22, p.37).

1811 John McIntosh discovered seedling tree in Ontario, Canada, one of several on his new farm. They were saved and later moved to a garden area.

1819 First known orchard of size was set by a Mr. Phelps of South Hero, consisting of 20 acres of unimproved, ungrafted trees. They were still bearing in 1882 when the acreage was reset. (Report of the Vermont Board of Agriculture, 1920-22, p.32).

1820 John McIntosh was selling seedlings from his trees to other settlers.

1830 Of the seedlings transplanted by John McIntosh, only one remained - the original McIntosh tree.

1835 The techniques of budding and grafting were learned from an unknown wanderer, allowing for production of fruit identical to that of the original tree.

1836 John McIntosh's apple became known as the McIntosh Red, after being known as Granny's Apple, when the Mrs. Took over responsibility for the orchard and nursery.

1840 Because of reform in liquor traffic only two distilleries were left, producing 3,500 gallons of cider brandy.

1842 A Mr. Chapman planted Baldwin apple trees in Addison County.

1848 Fruit growers convened in Montpelier in October to draw up a set of rules for the naming of apple varieties and a constitution for a Vermont Horticultural Society. There is no record of succeeding meetings.

1849 Northern Spy was first fruited in Vermont at Burlington.

1850 Convention of fruit growers at St. Albans in October passed a resolution recommending the organization of a horticultural society; resulted in a convention in Burlington the following February to form the Champlain Valley Horticultural Society.

1866 Twelve acre orchard of Rhode Island Greenings was set at Isle La Motte, which in one year produced a "wonderful" crop of 100 barrels of apples.

1868 Dr. T.A. Hoskins brought McIntosh to Newport directly from Dundela, Ontario.

1870 William McIntosh planted McIntosh trees in his own orchard in West Berlin, Vermont.

1871 Apple growers participated in the first public meeting of the State Board of Agriculture in March 1871 in St. Johnsbury. (75th Anniversary Bulletin of Vermont Horticultural Society).

1875 Period of transition from small home and farm orchards to commercial orchards. (1875-1910).

1876 First printed reference to McIntosh variety appeared in Fruits and Fruit Trees of America by Downing.

1880's Baldwin and Ben Davis were important varieties.

1888 First McIntosh tree set at the Agricultural Experiment Station in Burlington.

1894 Northern Vermont was included in the commercial apple growing regions of this continent. An apple jelly factory was started in Marshfield with a $1,000 investment and two employees. (Vermont Agricultural Report 1894-95, p. 173. Fire damaged the original McIntosh tree.

1895 Spray calendar for apples issued. The first probably came out of Canada.

1896 First annual meeting of the Vermont State Horticultural Society was held in December of 1896 at U.V.M. T.L. Kinney of South Hero was ite first president. Grand Isle County produced 55,000 barrels of fine grafted apples.

1890's Agricultural Experiment station horticultural staff was developed.

1899 1,675,131 apple trees; 1,176,822 bushels of apples. (12th Census, Bulletin No. 141, p. 64). The accuracy of these figures was challenged by a transportation survey.

1900 McIntosh became widely known.

1904 Act No. 15 of the General Assembly appropriated $500 annually for the Vermont State Horticultural Society to promote and develop horticultural interests in the state.

1905 There were 50 members of the Vermont State Horticultural Society.

1908 Last harvest of original McIntosh tree.

1910 The original McIntosh tree fell over at about 100 years of age, leaving thousands of its kind scattered throughout eastern North America. Many new orchards were set. (1910-1922)

1913 U.V.M. Extension Service was established in July. County extension service field work started.

1915 Cortland, a McIntosh-Ben Davis cross, was named by the New York Agricultural Experiment Station.

1916 The New England Fruit Show was held in Montpelier City Hall in November.

1917 George D. Aiken, a well-known apple grower, served as president of the Vermont State Horticultural Society. A test winter; severe winter minimum temperatures devastated many trees. (1917-1918)

1920's The three-bushel barrel was replaced by the one-bushel box.

1920 McIntosh apples sold for $9 to $11a barrel in New York City; Wealthy apples sold for $10 a barrel.

1921 Apples were selling for $12-$15/barrel with no advertising; and $10-$14/barrel in the New York City market for Greenings, Northern Spies, Macs. Net return to the farmer averaged $0.50 to $1.00 a bushel more than the best apples from Oregon and Washington. (Report of the Vermont Board of Agriculture, 1920-22, pp. 5 & 12).

1922 The Fameuse apple considered the best to plant in northern Vermont. Years of experience and experimentation had resulted in larger orchards with fewer varieties - specialization. The family orchard of many varieties was a thing of the past, the trend toward few varieties for commercial purposes. Favored varieties were McIntosh, Fameuse, Northern Spy, Wealthy, Rhode Island or Northwestern Greening, Delicious, Winter Banana, Wagner (in order of favor). Devastating frost ruined full crops for a few growers.

1931 A federal-state inspection service was made available to Vermont growers and shippers for the first time, certifying the grade, quality, and condition of apple shipments. (Agriculture of Vermont 1930-32, p.72).

1933 Another test winter that killed thousands of trees. (1933-1934)

1947 C. Lyman Callahan hired as first full time extension horticulturist.

1948 A committee from the VT Horticultural Society studied fruit processing as a means of disposing of low grade apples (75th Anniversary Bulletin, p. 3.)

1950's Significant grower interest surfaced in size-controlled trees.

1955 Vermont apple production exceeded 1,100,000 bushels.

1956 78,000 bearing McIntosh trees, 7,000 nonbearing; McIntosh represented 64% of all trees.

1969 Spring frost conditions destroyed 25% of apple crop.

1985 Vermont growers respond to an increasingly competitive world apple market by passing a marketing order through a grower referendum. The Vermont Apple Marketing Board is established to administer the order.

1988 The U.S. Surgeon General's Report on Nutrition and Health was released, citing the importance of water soluble fiber in the American diet.

1989 The National Academy Press published Diet and Health, written by the National Research Council. The publication became the basis for the national "Five a Day for Better Health" campaign, promoting the consumption of more fresh produce for better health.

1990 Vermont produced about 1.25 million bushels of apples; .875 million bushels were McIntosh. The 10-year average apple yield was 336 bushels/acre. (1980-1990).


Introduction

Vermont celebrated its bicentennial in 1991. In recognition of that milestone, the state's apple growers compiled this review of a 200-year success story - the history and traditions of Vermont's apple industry. The Seasons of Apples follows the Vermont apple industry from its beginnings on the early hill farms, where dozens of apple strains served a remarkable variety of uses, through the development of today's specialized, commercial production. Our state's bicentennial was seen as a means of renewing Vermont's strong sense of history, tradition and pride. We'd like to think that this heritage is nowhere stronger than in our apple industry - just as, for many people, the McIntosh apple symbolizes Vermont. Dedicated to the generations of Vermont apple growers.

Vermont is the home of tidy villages, town meetings, and the tart and crispy-sweet taste of the McIntosh - the world-famous apple that reaches near perfection in the Green Mountain State's upcountry growing season of cool nights and warm, sunny days.

Today, the popularity of the "Mac" has encouraged growers to make it Vermont's dominant apple, with McIntoshes accounting for almost 70 percent of the state's apple crop. Modern techniques called Integrated Pest Management (IPM) and controlled-atmosphere storage enable Vermont Macs to reach top quality with minimal environmental impact, and to stay harvest-crisp for consumers throughout the year. Macs are shipped from Vermont across the U.S. - they're even popular in Western Europe, especially Scotland and Ireland.

The Vermont apple industry of today is an agricultural success. Yet the "Superstar McIntosh" marks only the most modern chapter in a fascinating and colorful history.

The Days of Honeygold and Sops of Wine

Two hundred years ago, apples were growing on hill-farm orchards and lakeside slopes all over Vermont. One hundred years ago, the apple industry here was strong, yet the McIntosh was still a newcomer. The "big three" were varieties called Baldwin, Northern Spy, and Rhode Island Greening.

The old Vermonters grew apples in a rich and amazing variety. From orchards here were harvested Honeygold, Summer Rambo, Tompkins County King, Cox Orange Pippin, Pound Sweet, Nonesuch, Wolf River, Wealthy and Winter Banana. Vermont had apples named for towns, such as Bethel, Roxbury Russet, and St. Johnsbury Sweet; others were named for their shape (Sheepnose), their taste (Sops of Wine), and their color (Red Astrachan, Yellow Transparent, and Peach). Some of the apple names were mysterious, or pure poetry - imagine, for example, the taste of Seek-No-Further, Duchess of Oldenberg, King David, Black Gilliflower, and Lady.

Why so many? Apples have a natural tendency to reinvent themselves. A seed of one variety, once planted, will grow to bear something different. "They won't come true to themselves," a Vermont grower once said of apples. In time, Vermonters learned to experiment, to graft for desired and new varieties, and to use the different apples for all sorts of purposes.

In the Early 'Cider Time'

When the Vermont Rural Life Commission's Subcommittee on Apples of 1932 divided the state's apple-growing history into three stages, it named the first - from around 1700 to the Civil War - the cider apple period.

Apples were brought to Vermont from neighboring states and Canada in colonial days. Settlers planted Fameuse apples around 1700 at historic Chimney Point on Lake Champlain. In Vermont's first century, nearly every farm had an orchard. Apple growing was limited to seedlings of natural varieties, uncultivated and often diseased. Even so, large quantities of apples were produced - and cider, it is said, flowed more freely than water.

Several decades of home-grown intemperance ensued. By 1810, Vermont had 125 distilleries producing over 173,000 gallons of apple brandy. But by 1840, reform in liquor traffic had eliminated all but two distilleries, and reduced the year's production of apple brandy to 3,500 gallons.


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In the years leading up to the Civil War, Vermont apple growers learned to cultivate with increasing skill. The first sizable Vermont apple orchard was set in 1819 in South Hero, by one Mr. Phelps, who had 20 acres of unimproved, ungrafted trees. After the 1840's, railroading began to offer orchardists the chance to sell their apples outside their communities. Fruit growers met in St. Albans in 1850 to discuss the growing interest in fruit culture, and the following year they formed the Champlain Valley Horticultural Society, for Vermont and New York orchardists.

With their better methods now producing an abundance of apples, farmers were on their way to the more sophisticated growing culture of the farm orchard period, from the Civil War to 1890.

The Varieties of Self-Sufficiency

This was the time of great growth in apple varieties. Itinerant grafters traveled with scions, or twigs, of popular trees in their backpacks. By the late 1800's, Vermont orchards had hundreds of strains - apples that ripened red, green, or gold, apples to pick early or late, apples that were used in many more ways than we use them today.

The typical 19th century Vermont apple orchard was a small place, perched on a hardscrabble hill, and producing a dozen or more different varieties. Its various apples were good for cooking, sauce, pickling, jelly, eating fresh, giving at Christmas, making into cider, and storing until spring.

After the Civil War, for-profit orcharding began in earnest. Between 1870 and 1890, commercial orchards were set in Charlotte, East Highgate, Cambridge, and East Corinth. The relatively open spaces of the Champlain Valley began to make the area a prime orcharding spot, from the northern Champlain Islands to the southern lakeside towns of Shoreham and Orwell. Much of the Champlain Valley had been cultivating wheat - but in the late 1800's, as much larger Midwestern farms started raising grain, many Champlain farmers turned to apples, for which they still have some of the best conditions in the world.

By 1894, northern Vermont had become one of the most important apple-growing regions of the continent, supplying markets in the United States, Canada, South America, and even Europe. According to the Vermont Agricultural Report of 1894-95, apple growers were meeting with specialists in fertilization, cultivation, and spraying, and knew the importance of handling fruit carefully for market. The scene was set for the commercial orchard era, which began in 1890, became extensive around 1910, and continues today.

Enter the McIntosh

Raising apples for market meant new prosperity for growers. It also meant fewer, larger orchards, the rise of several popular varieties, and the dwindling of the old-time culture that had found so many uses for so many apples. Growers discovered which apples were best suited to Vermont's climate and soil. By 1900 the most popular variety, shipped to Boston and then New York, was the Baldwin - yet the Baldwin, today, has almost disappeared. The post-Civil War years had also brought what many now consider the single most important development in Vermont apple history: the introduction of the McIntosh.

The first Macs grew in Canada. The original tree sprouted from one of several seedlings discovered in 1811 by John McIntosh, the American-born son of a Scottish immigrant, on his new farm in Ontario. McIntosh saved the seedlings, and later planted them in a garden. By 1830, only the McIntosh tree remained. In 1835, McIntosh had learned the techniques of budding and grafting from an unknown itinerant. Trees grafted from the original McIntosh were thus able to produce identical fruit. This new variety was first called "Gem," then "Granny's Apple" when Mrs. McIntosh took over responsibility for the orchard and nursery. The apple later became known as the McIntosh Red. In


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1868, Dr. T.A. Hoskins brought the McIntosh to Newport, Vermont directly from Dundela, Ontario. William McIntosh, a descendent of John, planted McIntosh Reds in his West Berlin, Vermont orchard in 1870. The first printed reference to the Vermont Mac appeared in 1876.

In 1894, the original McIntosh tree in Ontario was damaged by fire. Its last harvest was in 1908 and by 1910, when it finally fell over at nearly 100 years of age, the apple strain that the tree had begun was bearing fruit on thousands of trees throughout Vermont and eastern North America.

Start of the Modern Era

In 1917-18, a devastating freeze along the Champlain Valley killed many of the old apple varieties. Afterward, the commercial growers began concentrating in earnest on a limited variety of popular, attractive, multipurpose apples. In 1920, the "big four" Vermont varieties were McIntosh, Fameuse, Northern Spy, and Wealthy. Also important were, in order, Rhode Island (or Northwestern) Greening, Delicious, Wagner, and Winter Banana. Because a great number of large orchards were by then raising proven varieties, cultivated by sound methods, a forecaster in the 1920's predicted that Vermont's apple culture would develop into producing large, profitable crops of fine-quality fruit.

The old hill-farm culture, meanwhile, had faded, thinned by population loss. With it many old apples were lost. But in the 1970's, an influx into Vermont of young people interested in living close to the land contributed greatly to a revival of interest in old-time apples. Today, a large number of antique varieties have been nurtured back to life on revived, hill-farm orchards. Old apple varieties are commercially available at Vermont orchards in South Hero, Monkton, Waterbury Center, New Haven, South Burlington, Mendon, Essex Junction, Dummerston, East Burke, Shaftsbury, Orwell, Springfield, and Middlebury.

Recent years have also brought increasing sophistication to Vermont's orchards. In the 1980's, an average of 79 commercial growers, on 3,500 bearing acres in total, produced an average annual crop of 1.25 million bushels of apples. Along with the dominant McIntosh, leading commercial varieties of today include Cortland, Empire, Paulared, and Delicious. The introduction of semi-dwarf varieties has permitted more trees to be cultivated per acre, and yields have grown dramatically.

Using Knowledge to Reduce Environmental Risk

An important refinement on modern Vermont orchards is Integrated Pest Management, or IPM - a system, employed by 90 percent of growers here, that minimizes pesticide use. IPM combines different types of pest-control methods - biological, cultural, chemical, and mechanical - to greatly reduce the possibility of harmful effects on the environment. This technique is based on knowledge of apple pests and beneficial organisms, the crop, and the environment in which all these interact.

"Growing fruit is an unusually risky agricultural business," states Sanford S. Witherell, Jr., of Noggin Orchard in Shoreham. "Vermont growers have shown a willingness to experiment with and use environmentally responsible pest-control techniques that may not always be the cheapest or easiest approach to assuring a marketable crop."

During the autumn harvest, every Vermont apple is picked by hand. Modern controlled-atmosphere storage facilities permit growers to provide high-quality Macs and other varieties to distributors and consumers months after picking. In these storage systems, levels of carbon dioxide, oxygen and ethylene are carefully monitored to keep the apples fresh.

There is pride in every Vermont apple grown and sold today, in part because of the state apple industry's long and rich history.

For bright flavor, lively crunch, and full aroma - for eating fresh, for salads and for cooking - there's nothing like a Vermont McIntosh.

 


Produced by:
the Vermont Apple Marketing Board in cooperation with the Vermont Department of Agriculture, Food and Markets, Montpelier, Vermont.

C/o Vermont Department of Agriculture, Food and Markets
116 State Street
Montpelier, VT 05620-2901

Written by Doug Wilhelm
Researched by Anita Rye
Original Book Designed by Tim Newcomb
Coordinated by Steven F. Justis
Thanks to Cold Hollow Cider Mill, The Vermont Historical Society, Bailey-Howe Library Special Collections